Total Pageviews

Sunday 16 September 2007

DIY FIX broken heater blower on 307 peugeot

Why Am I posting this data.

Hopefully it will help other people with the same problems.

Well on the same day Saturday 16/09/07 I started to try and follow the wire diagram in the Haynes manual for the heater system with Aircon.

I started by removing the glove box and surrounding panels to gain access to the heater blower fan.

This was not to hard and do risk of braking anything.

1. I removed the blower motor and navigating it past the wire looms and brackets.

2. Tested the motor blower on the battery charger in the garage, spun up no problems.

3. So fault still lies somewhere behind this dash.

4. Located the resistor inside the blower aperture, if the reach in and twist it anti clock it will pull down and reveal the electrical connection.

5. The resistor contains 5 connections that pass the voltage across different tappings of the power resistor to give the speed settings 1 to 4.

6. Pin 1 must have had a poor connection at some point and was slightly tarnished crating a faulty connection on the spade terminal and on the connector plug also.

7. I cleaned the connections and added a little copper slip to the pin connections and refitted the resistor to the loom.

8. Refitted the blower motor and tested the system.

Result 2

I now have a heater blower in the car.

What is better i did not give Mike Thompson Stafford Ltd £650 of my money to fix such simple problem.

If the connection goes again i am sure if i was to cut the plug off the loom and solder the wires directly to the pins on the resistor i would get a 100% fix probably better than replacing the loom.

I have seen a few references to looms and 307 cars.

I think Peugeot are making money out of customers through poor product in some cases.

they should be trying to put a fix in place that does not cost £650.

Hope you enjoy the read.

some pics below.






96 comments:

Anonymous said...

Oi, achei seu blog pelo google está bem interessante gostei desse post. Gostaria de falar sobre o CresceNet. O CresceNet é um provedor de internet discada que remunera seus usuários pelo tempo conectado. Exatamente isso que você leu, estão pagando para você conectar. O provedor paga 20 centavos por hora de conexão discada com ligação local para mais de 2100 cidades do Brasil. O CresceNet tem um acelerador de conexão, que deixa sua conexão até 10 vezes mais rápida. Quem utiliza banda larga pode lucrar também, basta se cadastrar no CresceNet e quando for dormir conectar por discada, é possível pagar a ADSL só com o dinheiro da discada. Nos horários de minuto único o gasto com telefone é mínimo e a remuneração do CresceNet generosa. Se você quiser linkar o Cresce.Net(www.provedorcrescenet.com) no seu blog eu ficaria agradecido, até mais e sucesso. (If he will be possible add the CresceNet(www.provedorcrescenet.com) in your blogroll I thankful, bye friend).

Unknown said...

Appreciate your detailed assistance.
Fixed heater blower.
Thanks again,
Frank Mullin

Anonymous said...

THANKS VERY MUCH, INFO VERY HANDY

Anonymous said...

Thanks very much, info was a great help.
Peugeot loosing loads of servicing money with this tip.

splushcannon said...

I normally get my dad to do stuff like this for me as im useless!

I thought id have a go and it really does work and i had my wifes car back together and with the fan running in less than 1 hour!!

easy instructions which saved me a quoted £650!!!

class act,

Anonymous said...

You are a complete HERO!!

Thanks

chris said...

have same proble,,,can you describe how to remove blower...its not obvious...have tested the blower and it works
have tested the plug from resistor to blower and current shows on a multitester...not sure what next??

cheers chris

Anonymous said...

Thanks - this tip worked wonders - form the other posts it seems to be a common problem.

I puzzled how to remove the blower unit as well - twist it clockwise and then pull it out.

WD40 worked great on my tarnished connections!

Anonymous said...

Thanks Mate you are a HERO !!!!!!1

Timetravel said...

I would just like to thank everyone for the comments, it makes it all worth the time posting the information knowing it may help.

I am very busy at the moment moving house so i am sure we will have some new post information to add over the next month or so.

Best Regards
Richard

Anonymous said...

Excellent info, heater now working and I now know where to go if it happens again.

Still not sure how to remove fan / motor though

Anonymous said...

THANKS VERY MUCH, YOUR HELPFUL HINTS JUST SAVED ME £650.00. JUST TO SAY THANK YOU,ONCE AGAIN
HAVE A NICE CHRISTMAS.
HUGH...

Anonymous said...

Sooo wonderful of you to post this, ive been looking everywhere for a solution. Many thanks and a Happy new year from Sweden!

Jonas

Anonymous said...

Cheers mate.

Worked a charm (after I managed to get the buggers out)and saved me lots of dollar!

The Peugeot dealer told me he had never known it to be the contacts needing cleaning and told me to replace the resistor when I asked them how to check it (the resistance got progressively larger from pin 1 through to 2,3,4 and 5, with no open circuits, so I thought it seemd like to was fine. I suppose they never even consider just cleaning the contacts as it's not their money!

One thing, couldn't find copper slip, only copper grease, which was described as the same thing. I tested it and found it to be cn electrical insulator so I'm glad I didn't use it on the contacts. The local friendly garage man I spoke to said he'd never heard of using it on contacts.

Thanks again, a great help, especially the pictures.

Ollie

Anonymous said...

Hi there i have been searching the internet for an answer to this same problem,and your sounds great. My problem however is that my car has climate control, is it true that these cars dont come with the resistor separate and it is built into the motor below the fan blade. If so how do I repair this problem....Thanks in avance for any help...

Unknown said...

Absolutely great! Spot on solution. The plastic around the resistor contacts was really charred, but cleaned them up as you said and it works fine now. Only problem I had was the resistor lead looks about 1/2 the length of yours, so I had to clean those contacts 'blind'. Great article. Thanks loads.

John in South Devon said...

Thanks for the postings. I got a local auto-electrician to do the job (via the glove-box route). It was an over-heated connection on pin 1. He soldered a new wire in place and it all works fine. It cost me £60 and took him 2 hours. He may well have been able to do it faster, but based on the £650+ main dealer quotes I reckon I'm £590 better off! Thanks again for all the advice provided; if I'd not seen this I'd have gone to the main dealer.

Anonymous said...

Can you describe how to remove the glove box to gain access to the motor and is it the same on a 307cc

ironbark said...

thanks mate ,the blower went 2 days ago ,found your post .the exact same problem i have a 2002 307 hdi wagon.the number 1 connection on the resistor had burnt out and number 2 was damaged ,the connecter was burnt so i removed the wires put heat srink around the ternamals and pluged them back in one at a time,had to rewire number 1 bobs your uncle put it all back took about 4 hours saved a fortune.ps bit of a tight squeeze a few Fs but well worthit.Thanks again

Anonymous said...

Thanks
excellent information.
Heater now working.
Took about 2h I had to remove the lower connection of steering rod ( non brittish vehicle) to be able moving the fan motor out of the way to get space enough reaching in to the resistor.
thanks again.
Mikke / sweden

jonathyan oates said...

This was an amazing find, searched everywhere for an answer to this problem. Like you said remove the blower and then the resistor. Simple!
Thanks so much for putting this up and leaving it there, has helped me no end and i have a heater again! Fantastic

GlennDT said...

I appear to have this problem on my daughters 307. I can get to the stage of twisting the Resistor and pulling down but the free cable is only about 5cm long which means I can not disconnect or inspect the resistor unit and connection.
Anyone had the same problem; any suggestions?
Thanks, Glenn.

Timetravel said...

GlennDT

The wire is short and is a push fit only into the resistor. It is tight and will require a little force.

The Plug can then be cut off and extention cables added to the harness via block conector.

Hope this helps

Regards
Richard

Anonymous said...

hi my heater on 307 sw went exactly the same. got my local car electrician to fix, all done in an hour and cost me £35.

Dudley West Midlands

broadway135@yahoo.com

Anonymous said...

Did this fix and working again great. A couple of points.
To get the glove box off. open glove box and unscrew 4 star screws around the edge. Then there are 3 underneath, then it will slide out.
To unplug the resistor unit, you will have to shove both hands down the vent once you have turned it 1/4 turn and pulled it out as far as possible.
Then to unplug it on the front side where you will feel it has ridges you will feel a tag. Lift or squeeze (i cant remember which) then it should unlug easy enough.
I then just folded up some wet and dry and cleaned up the contacts. (no 1 especially)

kev said...

Thanks..I have been struggling driving to work with no heater during the bad weather.Blower used to work on settings 3 and 4 but then went intermittent b4 finally giving up.Took just over a hour to remove glovebox,fan and resistor.I just gave points on resistor a light scrape with a jewellers screwdriver, put everything back and hey presto i have a lovely warm car again,and saved a packet!
Thanks for posting your great blog!

Anonymous said...

Instructions worked a treat. One fixed Heater Blower.

Chris said...

Thanks. A long struggle & I had correctly identified the heater blower control resistor as likely cause of the problem but it was fine and the connections looked OK. However after reading your blog, cleaning & copper slipping them did the trick. Clearly a design fault in the 307 and also in my 2008 Expert Teepee. Thanks again

Anonymous said...

Dave P I had this problem occur on my 307hd1 sw with air con and climate control. Managed to get the blower out thanks to your advice
The actual plug to the resistir which is built into the fan on this model was burnt.
Cleaned up the spades on the resistor and the fan started intermittent. Will now cut off plug and solder to pins

Anonymous said...

Great link. Had the wife's car in bits earlier and after about an hour's work, fan performing like a new one considering it packed-up the other week.

I was quoted £180 to fix as 'It'll need a new part' according to a rip-off Autoelectrician! whereas all it cost me was an hour of my time, a torx driver, some switch-cleaner and a cut finger - my fault entirely.

Superb explanations - keep up the good work.

Paul, Sheffield

Anonymous said...

Quality info pal worked a treat you deserve a medel.
Detail was spot on we need more people like yourself to stop the dirty dealers ripping people off.
Thanks again

Timetravel said...

Thanks so much for your feedback its nice to think i have helped a number of people resolve this issue.

Hope you have all had a good year

Best Regards

Richard

Anonymous said...

hi, the green plastic on my resistor is all burned looking at the top end.

i removed it and cleaned the connections up a bit and wd40 them a bit but nothing happened when i plugged it back in.

does that mean i need a new resisitor?

many thanks

jccc said...

wonderful worked a treat just 25mins to sort it out :-)
and it cost nothing in parts

i pitty and lhd 307 owners who have to do this as pedals whould be in the way unless rhd versions have everthing on the other side

Anonymous said...

thankyou very much your explanation helped me to fix my heater and save money ;-)

Unknown said...

A massive thank you to all of you, works a treat!

Cheers

Unknown said...

A big thanks to you all, heater now working!

Cheers guys

Stephanie

Unknown said...

many thanks, your tip has saved me a fortune. It's freezing weather here in Glasgow and I couldn't drive the car due to a frozen screen and a duff heater. I followed your guide and it worked a treat. It's worth mentioning that the loom on my 307 seemed a lot shorter than that shown in the pictures so I had to do it all one handed, visions of James Herriot.
Cheers.

Nick said...

Just to say a big thanks for posting this, very helpful, heater working and took just over an hour. Much appreciated!

Anonymous said...

Had same fault and cleaned off the black oxidation on pin 1 of the green resistor with emery board and fan came back to life.

Many thanks for the excellent description on how to fix this fault.

aran said...

Hiii,,I have the same problems heater does not blow any air and the a/c and climate control button does not work.
I have taken everything apart and the resistor looks fine..... does any1 know if the problem could be something else..... any help is appreciated as im freezinggg!!!!!!!!

Anonymous said...

What as the problem with your heater blower? Was it that it wouldn't turn on or wouldn't turn off? The blower on my 206 has just decided it will no longer turn off even when you press the off button on the climate control unit.Just wondering if the solution would be the same.

Anonymous said...

Looks like an easy fix that should save me £200.
thanks a billion for putting these photos in.

steel_gurder_2k9@hotmail.com said...

got my heater fixed hope the f*** it doesnt go again. Resister easy to fit but the bloody loom. tell me abouut it!!

Stuart MacDougall said...

Saved me a lot of hassle thanks!

Anonymous said...

Brilliant information and photo's helped a lot. Saved me lots of money. Thanks thanks and thanks.

Anonymous said...

The obd connector that allows plug-in to OBD scan units would be the very same 1 as used by the dealership technicians also. The amount of looking at available to you personally depends on the Galletto 1260 car manufacturer and the model.

Anonymous said...

Thanks mate you r a legend just followed your pictures and heaters r now working thanks again

Anonymous said...

thanks mate your a legend just followed your pics and instructions blower and heating working lovely thanks again

Timetravel said...

Hi Steve

I do not believe there is an easier way to access the harness other than a complete removal of the old harness and a replacement new harness fitted.

To do this you need to remove the complete front dashboard. Looked like a pig of a Job.

Now i can not say with 100% certainty there is no other way of accessing the harness as i may be incorrect.

If there is I was unable to find it, I will commit to that much.

If you find a better access please let me know for my reference

Good luck with the fix, I personally would review the permanent fix while the weather is good as this is not the sort of job you want to do when its -5 outside as you need to be able to feel your fingers for this fix.

Let me know How you get on Steve

Best Regards

Richard

On 02/10/2011 17:08, Steve Ward wrote:

Hi

Just wanted to say thanks for writing up the blower fix.
I was really baffled when I pulled blower out and it worked straight of 12v and the switch seemed to work and 12v was live on the power loom etc . . . .

Anyway just cleaned it up for now and it works. When I go for the permanent fix, is the only way to access the resistor look through the blower hole or is there any way to access from above or something?

Cheers Steve.

barney said...

hi i have struggled along without a blower for 2 months I've had three quotes of £215, £245 and £580!!!!!!!!!!. tried your tip and 35 minutes later my fan was working like new.
If your ever in widnes ill buy your beer all night.
cheers matey andy a

ps on 307xsi 110. 54reg it is even easier, no cover to remove, just a simple press and pull connector on the top left of fan casing

neil said...

Nice one for the advice, but unfortunately the plug is burnt out on pins 1 and 2.. might have to go for the permanent fix!

cheers for the help.

Anonymous said...

Excellent advice! Followed instructions & ...SUCCESS!
I had evidence of some burning on one of my pins in resistor connector - managed to improve contacts with needle files & it works!
I found there was very little slack on the cables to resistor, so another blog suggested what turned out to be a MUCH QUICKER WAY to access the reistor;
By turning on the Air Circ, it opens a hatch allowing you to get access to the resistor from the drivers foot well. This also avoids having to remove the Heater fan etc.
THANKS FOR A GREAT MONEY SAVING BLOG!

paul said...

Excellent tip! Found some burning on one of pins. Managed to improve contact using some diamond files and...SUCCESS!
The wires were too short to pull through fan motor housing, so another blog gave GREAT TIP;
Turn off engine with AIR CIRC ON - this OPENS A FLAP directly below the resistor. You can now get to the Resistor FROM THE DRIVERS SIDE foot well!
This AVOIDS having to remove the glove box & heater motor etc. and makes it a MUCH QUICKER JOB.
THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR EXCELLENT BLOG.

Anonymous said...

dude ...i started the job thinking im out off my depth ..managed to remove cleaned all contacts ..replaced..works fine...awesome...thank you v. much...over the moon

Anonymous said...

Just done this myself, took 1 hour. The contacts are burnt but just wobbled them about a bit and my heater works now. Just hope it lasts. Thanks.

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the info and pictures.I had to replace the loom and resister as they were beyond repair.The two cost me £96 quid from the dealer.The dealer said they sell loads of them so it must be a very common fault.Thanks again for the help.

Chris said...

Did this to my Girlfriends Grans car today.

Bought a 2nd hand resistor on ebay, followed the guide and all works fine!

Total cost £26 and about 30mins! Cheers!

smash said...

finally got around to using the tips on this page today and it worked like a charm, very pleased and cannot thank you guys enough for sharing.. hats off to you..

smash said...

awsome guys worked a treat, can't thanks you guys enough..

Anonymous said...

Great info Fan stopped this morning on the way to work. 1hr or so this eve and fixed. Just worried that i have 2 screws left over. Wonder what will fall off the car tomorrow?

stbernardoflymm said...

All pictures and blogs seem to tell me the wires to the resistor are quite long, and the pictures show the resistors out of the tunnel. I can only just see the top of the resistor. I have pulled the cable out as far as I can or have I? I have not over pulled, so do they all come out as far as the picture

Anonymous said...

Thanks a lot for the tips ! Just worked for me. I'm a big DIYer, and I love stuff like that !
You made my day ! you're a HERO !
Thanks again.

Anonymous said...

the world is a better place with you in it!! spot on tip

Anonymous said...

As everyone on here has said, thanks for posting this! 45 minute job.

The girlfriends packed up last night and she works till late. This was a lifesaver as it is below freezing at the moment and there is no way to clear the screen.

I bent pin number 1 very slightly just to ensure it made good contact with the plug. Tip top!

I found this is easiest to do by laying across the seats, feet on the drivers seat. You can get both arms into the space that way. But you will bump your head if, like me, you accidently push the horn with your knee!

Thanks again,
Ryan :0)

Anonymous said...

Can not find resistor anywhere, Have stuck me hand/arm in where blower came out from as far as i can. Can't find it anywhere. Is it possible it could be fitted to my blower motor as it has 2 connections?

Anonymous said...

Just finished it on my Peugeot 307 2005. There are two connectors to this make of fan unit - one a simple two spade power and the other a 5 wire, presumably from the integral resistor. Fan unit tested with battery charger in garage and it proved it was not broken but still didn't work in the car until I sprayed all connections with WD40 then it sprung into life !!

Anonymous said...

Thanks for your help, as mine is climate control ,I still managed to repair it with a squirt of wd40 on to the connectors job done and not paying silly Peugeot prices big thanks again

Kev said...

Have the same problem on a 307 SW on a 55 plate with digital climate control. Have taken out motor but cannot find resistor.

Can anyone tell me where it is?

Pct said...

hi chaps, i'm not very good at car stuff and skint due to chrimbo, i can't find this 5 pin plug ;[ i'm probably doing it all wrong... do i need to undo the 2 screws in the plastic case of the blower in order to get inside? i can't get the unit apart.
Paul

Anonymous said...

Another satisfied customer! Thank you very much. I had spent about an hour taking the car apart to test the wiring and could not find a live feed to the back of the motor but no blown fuses so was thinking it was the switch. I was just about to give up and call an autoelectrician when I did a google search and found your fix. Worked a treat. Getting the motor and resistor out was as you described although more of a job for a Gynaecologist than a mechanic but a bit of perseverance and a lot of swearing and the job is done. Thanks again.

madmark said...

i done this dident remove the glove box just took off the isde panel on drivers side 3 screws looked up behind the heater with a torch turnrd car ignition on and turnrd heater control to recycle air and the air duct tunnel behind the heater opens turn ignition off and it atays open and hey the resistor is in view in the duct hole thrned it anti clockwise and pulled it out abit uncliped wire block and removed the resistor cleaned and refitted the same way took 15 mins worked a treat hope this helps good luck

Anonymous said...

Brilliant fix. I don't normally do this sort of job but after reading that this could be a REALLY easy fix I thought I'd give it a go. Had to take it all apart twice but I think the second time dislodged something somewhere and it all works fine now.

Thanks

Anonymous said...

307 hdi right-hand drive

As sugested, go in through driver's footwell - remove small facia - switch to recirculate air

access easier and quicker - cable very short so this is the best side

unplug resistor then connectors, clean well - can be tested by re-inserting connector.

sockets were tarnished - worked fine afterwards - 1 hr job through drivers side, 3hrs by taking out fan motor etc from passenger side.

Cheers for all posts.

Jonathan said...

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!
Just about to get my car shipped to Cyprus and suddenly my blower packed in!!!

It was a bitch of a job due to my wiring loom being very short but an hour later and very scratched arms! I managed to sort it out with a bit of wd40 and a quick clean up.

Just curious as to whether anyone has purchased a new resistor connector as mine is looking pretty shoddy. Will do the job for now though.

Thanks once again

Jonathan said...

Thank you!!!!!!!

Bitch of a job due to a short wiring loom but an hour later and I have a servicable blower once more thanks to you and wd40!!

My arms however are shredded!

Thanks again

Anonymous said...

thank yoy so much about an hour £20.00 for heater blower £20.00 for res from the scrap yard all working fine now . you have save me so much money thank you so much lee smith

Mike said...

Am going to try this fix at the weekend, but I have 1 question....

My fan works on 3 and 4, but the aircon doesn't. But when I have the fan on 1 or 2 I can hear the aircon switch on. Is this the same symptoms everyone else had?

Thanks for the info.

Dunkan Kade MacLean said...

Bloody marvellous mate! Just bought a 2004 307 1.4 s90, guy gave it to me cheap as he'd had a quote for £650 to repair the fan, so he knocked off that from the asking price, got myself a bargin and thanks to your useful info fixed the problem myself.

Anonymous said...

really appreciate your advise!... followed your step to step pics and i fixed it in under an hour absolute perfect nice one mate!

Anonymous said...

please help i have so far checked the motor ok, and now dropped the resister on the drivers side up behind pedals, wires drop very slightly(even when pulled)and i could see the red cable is tarnished quite badly and sprayed it with contact cleaner, the fan came on for a few seconds and cut out, i dont see anyway im gonna cut off and reconnect the wire, any advice ( i havnt replaced the resister would a new one be any hope? )

Anonymous said...

please help i have so far checked the motor ok, and now dropped the resister on the drivers side up behind pedals, wires drop very slightly(even when pulled)and i could see the red cable is tarnished quite badly and sprayed it with contact cleaner, the fan came on for a few seconds and cut out, i dont see anyway im gonna cut off and reconnect the wire, any advice ( i havnt replaced the resister would a new one be any hope? )

Anonymous said...

Thanks so much for everyone's help and comments here, just fixed this problem through the driver's footwell in about 30 mins.

Harry said...

I have yet again had the same problem with my wife's car a 54 plate 307, FIVE TIMES I have fixed this, same problem every time, the No1 wire has now burnt through, this time it's a solder wire direct job, sick of it, having said that, I have had the 307 for 6 years with no other mechanical problems

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the blog. I know nothing about cars, but following the advice from further down on page 1 and going through the drivers side footwell with the air on Cycl, had the Missus mechanic fix the heater in 15 mins. He learned something new today also.

Once again tyvm, bladdy cold out there and she uses her car for work and is now chuffed to bits

Anonymous said...

Worked a treat on my son's 2003 307. Couldn't work out how to get to it from the glove box side, but did manage from the drivers side. Like most things once you've done it it seems easy. The resistor pack needs to be pushed up whilst turning anticlockwise to get it off.

happy wifey said...

Thank you very much, my husband has fixed my heater in a few hours and valeted it!! Happy wife, happy hubby.

Anonymous said...

simply stopping by to say hey

Anonymous said...

So glad I came acros this advice, fan has been intermittent on 2 for ages but then packed up altogether. Followed steps to access resistor but couldn't get it out. However after all the jiggling heater fan worked again, long may it last :)

Anonymous said...

Fix it and get rid off it the new pugs are crap give me an old 205 diesel any day

GT43products said...

Hi This the best advice I have had in a Long Time, And so easy to do! Had Quotes Of £450 & £500. this took me just under an hour But The fan Had Gone and the local Breakers did not have one! So I picked it up from Europarts £130 not bad saved a few hundred.
Thanks Again
Kind regards
Glenn

Unknown said...

Thanks very much for your detailed instructions. Worked a treat.

Anonymous said...

Hi,
My air blower too is not working but search for the resistance but in vain.
Please tell me where the resistance is located exactly.Did it found inside in the blower location so blower must be removed to get the resistance?
Please reply as soon as possible.Thanking you in advance.
From Shaleem e-mail; hasenbaksh@gmail.com

Anonymous said...

Works a treat. Feel very proud as felt it was one of those man moments you get in life, even I can fix a car!!!
Thanks mate

Si

Unknown said...

I have the same problem took motor out but couldn't find resistor is this because mine has got climate control does it have one? I then put everything back and by mystery it started to work. That lasted a few months now it is not working again all the lights and controls work on the display but blower not starting up. Any ideas

Anonymous said...

thanks for the information, especially the pictures. fixed mine within an hour and only one cut finger!!

much appreciated